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Punk Rock Elegance

This is a on-of-a-kind wedding dress, fusing the aesthetics of both punk rock and traditional ellegance. It was made custom for http://tuffycuddles.deviantart.com/, based mostly on her own concept drawings.

The dress is made with a satin outer, on a foundation of coutil in the bodice and tulle in the skirt. It is lined with white muslin. The drapes of the skirt are supported with 1/2" twill tape, and adorned with chain and metal dots. The belt loops are made with grommet tape, and will hold a pyramid-studded wide white belt. The bustle is gathered using the adorning chain and dog clips. The underlayer of
tattered tulle is sewn to the foundation of the dress, and integral to the design.

Elegant Punk Rock Wedding Dress

Click the link above of the photos below to see more views of the dress. In the next few days I will post a blog showing some snap-shots of the construction process.

Encyclopedia of Needlework

Today a friend referenced me to Project Gutenberg, which is a catalog of free e-books, many of them originally published in the Victorian. The specific book my friend sent me to is Encyclopedia of Needlework by Thérèse de Dillmont, a very comprehensive text on all things needlework, including hand stitching, embroidery, crochet, Irish lace, and many, many more things. The descriptions are concise and clear, and illustrated. All in all, it's an incredible text for anyone interested in learning handwork. For any of you interested in learning to floss, a text like this is the perfect place to start. Once you know how to embroider, there is no mystery in flossing.

The new tutorial is a clean-up and re-write of my blog entires on the subject much earlier this year. The photos are the same, but I made some major changes to the text so it will be clearer. I had not read through the blog since writing it, and was both embarrassed and amused with my late-night lack of grammar and clarity.

At any rate, it should be much easier to read and understand in the new form. If you find any errors or are confused by anything in the tutorial, please let me know so I can fix it. Thanks!

How to Make a Basic Ribbon Corset - Part 1
How to Make a Basic Ribbon Corset - Part 2
How to Make a Basic Ribbon Corset - Part 3
How to Make a Basic Ribbon Corset - Part 4


This tutorial describes how to make a ribbon corset using actual ribbon. It has coutil and boning only on the busk, sides, and grommets. Part one covers how to create the ribbon panels and attach them to the grommet and side coutil panels. Part two covers the creation of the busk panels and inserting the busk, as well as how to finish the edging on the busk panels. Part three covers finishing the side panels. Part four covers finishing the grommet panels.

X-Posted

This one is image heavy. I finished the wooden busk and took a bunch more detail photos and some still life photos of the corset and busk before packaging it to mail off.

The busk is hand-carved from solid oak using a dremel tool, and finished with Danish Oil. It is 2"x12". I'm hoping to take the time in the next few weeks to carve another one and make it decorative. :)

lots more images under the cutCollapse )

:D

School and New Corsets and Corset Photos

School

I have returned to the local community college extension, part time. I'm taking a class in ancient art history, and a pen and ink drawing class, and I'll post artwork and anything interesting from the classes. I have already been planning for this, and spreading out the orders for the next couple months. Sadly, I underestimated the amount of work I would get done this month before classes started, so I'm a bit behind schedule and hoping to catch up by mid-October. Current turnaround for most new orders will be late October or November.

The plan is to continue with my college education, and return to university full-time next fall. This does NOT mean I will be closing up shop. I will just need to space out orders more, and will most likely scale back my Etsy shop next summer. Rush orders, when possible, will be more expensive.

I will also still be making time for tutorials, and in between everything else am planning to start teaching workshops sometime this fall. As soon as I have the details I will post about it here.


New Corsets

I finished two new Renaissance stays which I've been working on for the past couple weeks. One is plain, and the other has a brown silk cover and leather edging. Both have a double-layer core of hemp/linen canvas, a change that I couldn't be more pleased about. The hemp/linen canvas is superior to the cotton duck canvas in every way, has almost no give, is strong and sturdy, and I expect it to wear like iron.

The chocolate dupioni silk stays are in partial trade for photos, so in the next couple months I should have photos of it being worn. In addition to the silk cover and leather edging, it also has a busk pocket, and I will be finishing the making busk in the next few days. On my pricing sheet I have the busk pocket and the busk listed separately, because if the owner can use the 14" wood busks available through most costume suppliers it will be a much cheaper option than having me make it by hand. The price of the busks is variable because I can carve or wood burn them with knotwork or other designs.

For more info on either corset, click the image to visit my web site.

Images WithinCollapse )


More Modeled Photos

To see all five new photos, click the photo below and visit my web site.

New Supplies

I found a new source for ribbons, where I can buy silk double-satin ribbon, rayon grosgrain, cotton taffeta ribbon, and cotton herringbone ribbon in a rainbow of colors. I'm particularly excited about these materials because they are sturdier and breath better than the synthetic materials I've been using. They'll be better for re-enactment corsets, and a more comfortable option for ribbon corsets and support on mesh corsets. They are wholesale-only, so if you have a resale of business license in the US, you may want to check them out. http://www.ribbonconnections.com/

I now have a source for linen mesh material in white, cream, beige, tan, and pale blue, green and pink. Combined with the new ribbons to match, I can make fully breathable mesh corsets in several different colors.

I am also now using a hemp/linen canvas as the core material for my conical corsets. It is as sturdy as cotton coutil, even on the bias, and wears like iron. It is infinitely superior compared to the cotton duck canvas I had been using. http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/3581-AA.shtml?lnav=fabric.html

A wonderful silk supplier: http://www.silkbaron.com/silk/index.html

New busks, made from a thicker guage spring steel and with closer spaced hooks on the bottom. They don't have many sizes in stock at the moment, but will have more in the next couple months. http://www.etsy.com/shop/KingAndCompany

General Corseting FAQ

This FAQ is intended to give a broad overview of answers to common questions about corsets and corseting, particularly questions asked by newcomers to corseting. If you would like more information on a particular question, or do not see your question, please comment or contact me directly. I'm also very interested in any feedback regarding the information provided in the FAQ. Thanks!

General Corseting FAQ

Red Silk Sweetheart Finished

Tonight I finished the red silk Victorian, many months in the making.

Core: Two layers of corset coutil
Cover: Dark red dupioni silk
Flossing: Black buttonhole thread
Edging: Black dupioni silk bias tape
Lace: Black slightly stretchy lace
Boning: 38 1/4" flat spring steel bones
Piecing: 8 panels per side
Busk: 16" metal straight double busk

Red Silk With Black Flossing and Lace




More Views Under CutCollapse )
In most cases, the boning is aligned to the seams of a corset, but when using spring steel flats this is not always an option. Spiral steels can curve and twist with a boning channel, but spring steel only flexes in and out, so it must be vertical to the curves of the corset at all times. When the seams of the corset do not lay on the vertical, it can be difficult to determine exactly where the boning channels should be.

This demo shows one trick you can use to find the vertical placement of boning on a corset, regardless of piecing.


Boning Channel Alignment Trick

Urgh...

Well, I finally wrote it, in CorsetMakers, no less. Two very, very sour experiences with posting to that group in the past month, and I am seriously contemplating the wisdom of posting there in the future unless it's something safely pertaining only to modern corsetry. It's no fun to be involved in a "discussion" where nothing I say is going to be OK unless it's to entirely bow down to other peoples' standards and ideas. What a clusterf*ck!



Anyway, in other news I've been updating some of the info on my site pertaining to ordering and corsets in general. I'm also planning on adding a general corsetry FAQ, so if there are any questions you think should be included, let me know.

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